The Wendouree cult (we’re members) never stops doing two things. The first is insisting on the domaine shortlisting any credible survey of the wine world’s most brilliant originals. The second is complaining that they can’t find the wines anywhere. Stumbling into well-cellared bottles 30 years on is about as likely as a snowstorm in the Sahara.
Certain wines reach benchmark status by typifying regional expression, others through defiant stylistic swerving. Wendouree counts with the latter. Any expectation for Australian-ness you bring to the wines will be unfulfilled.
The reds here are intricately structured, firm and fine-grained, and beg for two decades or more bottle age. If the perfume is less than gorgeous the wine simply needs more time.
My vote for the most if-you-know-you-know producer in the entire Southern Hemisphere.
Cheers,
Jason
