Loire ·
Great fun to center this little family of Bernaudeau rarities.
A brief tangent.
It’s baffling to consider the extent to which Bernaudeau commentary continues to center upon terroir. The wines have always seemed to me disinterested in both place and varietal and I find it altogether more useful to weigh them as aesthetic ends-in-themselves. The distinct sweet citrus reduction and equally vivid saline and white tea details trace to a visionary creator rather than particulars of site.
This is all intended as positive framing. Stéphane’s mind and artistic intentionality sum to a more interesting total than little parcels of Anjou can hope to equal, fascinating though these may otherwise be.
Cheers,
Jason
