Fun to watch 2008 Champagnes start to peck out of their shells. Emerging wines, though, predictably tend to emphasize intellectual rather than hedonistic pleasure. Tend.
Adrien Bergère’s late-released 2008, tasted recently from magnum, retains every inch of the vintage’s bonkers-freshness yet adds to this a rare kind of pleasure-in-drinking. The nose explodes with roasted pumpkin seeds and subtler crudo-like aromas soon followed by the citrus oil intensity so particular to this growing season. How many 2008s so willingly reveal their full expressivity? White pepper, crushed rock, jasmine…
In 2008 the blend is 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir from three villages (Fèrebrianges, Etoges, Congy) in the Val du Petit Morin, i.e. the southwest extreme of the Côte des Blancs. A patient 15 years on lees before disgorgement and plenty of in-glass layering to show for it.
Cheers,
Jason
