We cracked into one of these just-arrived rarities about three seconds after they arrived at our little shop. 'Regular' late releases from the domaine (extra in-bottle aging) are familiar enough but those seeing extended aging on lees (10 years longer than the original release!) are a first for us.
Our bottle was initially reticent then quickly blossomed into a beautiful tangle of sweet citrus and stones. The nose is fresh and young and pure, less autolytic than 170 months on lees has us expecting. With time touches of cantaloupe, bread dough, and white truffles. Loveliest is the whole milk-texture which continues to add layers as the wine opens.
Late-release programs are occasionally compelling though oftener gimmicky. We were carried off by the wine’s development and textural intricacy, both of which improve on even the best-cellared original release bottles.
Cheers,
Jason
